A closer look at what ‘raw’ really means — and whether it matters.
Every now and then, a customer walks into the store asking for raw chocolate. They’re curious, often convinced that “raw” must mean superior — healthier, purer, somehow better. But when I ask them what they think raw chocolate actually is, most don’t really know.
So let’s break it down.
In the industry, there are two broad categories of cacao: bulk and fine.
- Bulk cacao is produced for large-scale industrial chocolate. It makes up about 90% of global production. These beans come from high-yield, disease-resistant hybrids, often grown in monoculture systems. Fermentation is usually just skipped. The focus is on quantity and consistency, not on developing complex flavors.
- Fine cacao, on the other hand, comes from carefully selected genetic varieties, often grown in smaller, diversified agroforestry systems that support healthy ecosystems. The post-harvest process — especially fermentation and drying — is meticulously controlled to develop nuanced flavors: floral, fruity, nutty, balanced acidity, and so on. This is the cacao sought after by bean-to-bar makers.
Here’s the key point:
Fine cacao isn’t raw.
Fermentation — essential for developing complex flavors — naturally generates heat as microbial activity breaks down the pulp and transforms the bean’s chemistry. Temperatures typically reach 45–50°C, sometimes even higher. Without fermentation, the beans would stay bitter, acidic, and lacking the rich aromas we associate with good chocolate. If it’s properly fermented, it’s not raw.
You can read more about cacao [here].
The Craft: Who’s Processing Your Chocolate?
- Industrial processors:
Most chocolate brands aren’t actually chocolate makers. They buy ready-made cacao mass (cocoa liquor) from large industrial processors that handle huge quantities of bulk cacao. Roasting is standardized at high temperatures (120–150°C) to kill pathogens, reduce moisture, and mask off-flavors typical of lower quality beans. - Craft chocolate makers:
Bean-to-bar makers work directly from the cacao bean. Since they source high-quality, fermented fine cacao, their roasting approach is very different. Roasting is done in small batches, with careful attention to time and temperature — at lower temperatures than industrial roasting — to preserve delicate flavor notes. Every batch may need its own custom roast profile.
In short: cacao beans are almost always roasted.
In rare cases, like Awki’s ceremonial cacao, the beans are fermented but not roasted — instead, they’re pasteurized.
Final Thoughts
So when a chocolate is marketed as “raw,” here are a few questions to ask:
Are the beans fermented? If yes, they aren’t raw. (And if they’re unfermented, I don’t want them — and you probably shouldn’t either.)
Is it just “low roast”? Some brands highlight very light roasting as if it makes the chocolate raw. But roasting is roasting. Light roast isn’t a problem (over-roasting is); it’s just part of making good chocolate.
Is it simply “additive-free”? In some cases, “raw” is just a marketing label slapped on generic dark chocolate: no additives, but also no focus on cacao quality.